2013年6月15日星期六

weeks of British fashion for men: The main players

Today is the opening day of London Collections: Men, a fashion festival three days for the stock with a schedule that is strong enough to crack. This is a good indicator of Britain's position in the arena of international men's fashion - which now accounts for 50 percent of the global market for luxury goods worth over £ 24,000,000,000th But honestly, this adobe schedules are nothing intimidating bar for a fashion journalist. Sleep, it seems, is for the next season.chanel 2.55 classic flap bag For Spring / Summer 2014 Burberry Prorsum is the big story: namely, the first exhibition of menswear brand in the London calendar. They raised their sticks usual Milanese territory and it makes perfect sense, signature trench coat brand is much more comfortable in the rain flooded London on sunny climates of Lombardy streets. A wet Kensington Gardens, showing the position of the brand, it feels much more British. Burberry and many more. There is no preview of the Burberry collection first: Creative Director of the brand, Christopher Bailey, a nannying the press infiltration stops possible. In fact, the live stream viewers will get to see the clothes in front of the press, such as Burberry is broadcasting live backstage. Verbalize about the collection a few days in advance? No dice. It's a preview video on YouTube that shows some adaptation blue sky and sunny yellow. Wishful thinking for the summer of 2014? Your guess is as good as mine. Fortunately, some of the other creative talents were in London is ready to give an insight into their rail Menswear before the performance. For a journalist, this is golden. It allows you to discuss with their clothes one by one, unraveling (figuratively of course) their inventions. It would be impossible to have a clock speed through the snake Richard Nicoll model is woven rather than printed, for example, or crispy JW Anderson knits are double-sided, concealed with smocking. You have to turn inside out in order to understand. It's the same with the heads of designers: How could the link between fences and knitted network of brothers and sisters? Or colored E Tautz Patrick Grant Agreement and the first of three pieces of Charles II supported. The brains of these designers make them and their clothes so brilliant. Exclusively in the run-up to London Collections: Men, says The Independent on Sunday by a quartet of the best British fashion and shows a little of what they have in store for Spring / Summer 2014. Brothers and sisters Sid Bryan, Joe Bates and Cozette McCreery are the trio behind the brother label knitwear. The word "knitting", but burdened as it is folk cable with moldy imaging Aran knitwear and sweaters, seems an inadequate description of what they do. Brothers and Sisters was inspired by the London riots 2011, Richard Hell, Leigh Bowery and Paula Yates, while knitting a denim jacket for a fox fur with the head and feet or encrusted leopard cardigans sequins. For their spring 2014 show tomorrow, she watched West Side Story, with the inspiration of the esoteric (grid of New York basketball) to the obvious (the Jets and Sharks logos are broadly defined). Everything is knitted, but decorated with elaborate engravings by artist Richard Woods or embroidered emblems and tattoos cheesecake pinup Laura Lee. It's also a good dose of Miami Vice worthy knit pastels and a touch of lace: exactly the kind of thing that might have you seen a Fifties New York punk swaggering around "masculine men can wear things that are really girly" McCreery says, with a medallion cardigan height Then she laughed. "I mean, God, West Side Story is so camp!" J W Anderson There was not much hanging on the rail when I visited the studio of Jonathan Anderson on Monday. Well, that's a lie - it was his great resort collection 2014 for women and some guys wavy neutral knit like the bark of the tree, and three pairs of wool pants pocket Oxford. The rest was, in his own words, a "work in progress", even if it was only one week until the work was advancing on the podium. But Anderson, 28, lives in the tension last minute - it's part of what makes their clothing so electrifying. Knits cardboard cut-out shapes and subtle eighties avant-garde antics of Rei Kawakubo and Yohji Yamamoto to be victims Resort references are a good indicator of the next men's fashion. His boys and girls still share a wardrobe: the last season, witness the love-it-or-hate-it ruffles and headbands. For the spring 2014 Anderson has a special focus on the silhouette. It is like a column dress, he said - but for him. It also throws words like "modernity", "clean" or "sterile". But they are against the creeping sensuality Halter Neckline sits exposed and chopped meat and wrapped in the body until in the final result looks like a cross between Araki bondage, obi belt and fabric origami. E Tautz "We do not need too much to the idea of ??marrying suit," said Patrick Grant said. It is in the Norton & Sons Savile Row HQ as he says, and you expect an angry group knife to cut down his door at any time to the honor of the E Tautz, a former tailor Sir Winston Churchill, under which label Grant, right, shows in London Collections defend. Branch men Schneider Grant, about Norton & Sons, doing business in the pound sterling in the department and appropriate start time. E Tautz where subsidy can experiment. For spring, he was looking at the opulence of the menswear Sixties legends Mr. Fish and Granny Takes a Trip, Blades and Savile Row wild children and Tommy Nutter, who drove back to the 1660s, and Charles II, "the first attempt - Brocade .. silk panties petticoat "It's fair to say, E Tautz dandy looks for spring 2014. Richard Nicoll chanel 2.55 bag Richard Nicoll is a realist. This is something that always the female fashion GENUINE Australian London-based designer has failed. It was a refreshing adequate sensitivity since its introduction in 2005. It is also the foundation for his men's collection, is now in its third season. "This is a line of jeans really," Nicoll said modestly, the spring / summer collection 2014 is later today. And in fact there is a humility to fabric - canvas, denim, cotton lawn. Inspiration Nicoll's "Individualism and beautiful ugliness", references, portraits of the new wave and punk inhabitants of Zurich in 1970. He speaks of glamor and DIY undercurrent gay. But the underlying Nicoll is a lot more down there so much, garish fashion offers gay grab bar. The only explicit key? A series of engravings of suggestive and semi-clad boys cut snakes porn mags and collages by the legendary world of art punk and long-term employee Nicoll Linder Sterling, the first part of an exclusive collection, designed together.

没有评论:

发表评论