2012年9月13日星期四

Who am I wearing? Funny you should ask.


  SOLVE intelligent, a hand on the hip, for better representation of his jeans pipette, Laura Ellner seemed the epitome of street style. When she put in the Lincoln Center Plaza on Day 1 of New York Fashion Week last Thursday, a pair of cameras clicked and whirred to catch any competitor's performance.

 And what was it for a performance staged as carefully as a walk red carpet. But then, for Mrs. Ellner, a fashion blogger, the stakes are so high.

She hoped to burnish his image (it is regularly on the shelves, on his blog-style) and appear on a wave of similar sites. They also share the limelight with his pocket, a roomy duffel case multizippered easily than the Kelsi Dagger of Pour La Victoire, the leather goods company, where she works identified.

"I always like to shoot if I get through streets photographers to call the plays that I wear," said Ms. Ellner.

Throughout the week, dozens of similar scenes were played throughout the city in the show twice a year outside style, or sometimes competes occult happenings on the slopes. To studios at the docks along the Hudson and other places where performances were dozens of candidates in fashion, especially women, mostly young, for the cameras Milk blew apparently vying for their 15 seconds of fame on Instagram, Tumblr, or one of dozens of Fashion blogs to proliferate on the Web.

It was only a few years ago that these swans superbly equipped - designers, bloggers, fashion editors and style struck students - click-banged on the sidewalks and is a mash-up of vintage clothing, fast fashion and high range of labels, which must be as a free trade zone?

Today, many of them web icons, trot their splendor for dozens of fans. But what they are parading as street style - last bastion of fashion once the true indie spirit - was recently raped by tidal marketing consultant brands and infiltrated public relations gurus, all designed to convince women from leaving their goods.

"These girls are definitely billboards for brands," said Tom Julian, a specialist brand of fashion in New York, employs one of the few placement in a particularly stealthy new product. "People think, street style is a pure voice," said Julian. "But I do not think there is more clarity."

Neither for nor established brand like newcomers to get a foot in the door. "Most young designers do not have the resources to high-powered PR rent or have access to major publishers and designers," said Philip Oh, a street photographer ", so lend their clothes to friends and supporters, the shoot is a great possibility to be carried out by both industry and consumers. "

. "This is increasingly being recognized as a company" as Christine Barbe Rich, the site editor Refinery29 mode, called There are products that corporal punishment and Mrs. Barbe Rich added: ". Doing star"

Style tags as Josephine P., as she prefers to be called, who used their Champagne-toned hair and is presented at Milk Studios on Saturday in a pair of sandals from his employer, Nicholas Kirkwood. Or Ella Catliff, the graceful young editor of La Petite Anglaise, a blog-style, which was in the vicinity, swung a bag Anya Hindmarch. He was taken, Mrs. Catliff said Ms. Hindmarch showroom in London to promote the label during Fashion Week. Or Nicole Warne, Australian blogger, wearing a designer gift from a friend, Alice McCall.

Branding consultants believe that can popular blogger and other so-called influencers $ 2,000 to $ 10,000 to make for a unique look at their wares. More generally, however: "If you give them a gift card is a $ 1000 and pay their fees, it's a good quid pro quo," said Julian.

For some designers, the marketing force fashion bloggers meet or surpass a naive red carpet.

"We all know that celebrities contracts," said Karen Robinovitz, founder and chief creative architect digital brand, an organization that fashion bloggers. "At some level, it's a piece of the same thing."

Michelle Stone, whose firm represents AEFFE Moschino, Jean Paul Gaultier, Alberta Ferretti and other luxury brands, makes regular loans or grants to style influencers high visibility. Women love Hanneli Mustaparta, the model is a blogger or Taylor Tomasi Hill are "new kinds of celebutantes," said Stein. "When you give people that kind of clothes we expect them to say who they are."

In fact, what was once an almost secret operation now a bit random in the fresh air, and strategic planning. Seeding new designer brands or long street style in the mix "is a new type of PR", Daniel Saynt, a partner said in an agency that negotiates years between brands and trendsetters. "We look for those who are most likely to be photographed outside performances," said Saynt. "Our job is to ensure that they are. The right products at the right time"

During Fashion Week, Socialyte its affiliate marketers trend Park has approximately 200 investment, he said, for 18 fashion brands and retailers. Among them are limited edition lines Rose & Pepper, Vera Wang and Pour La Victoire.

"Few people know that there are bloggers and some seemingly random posers modeling costs," said Saynt. "But even those who do not always understand the extent to which we orchestrate these investments."

Sometimes the. Search more casual snaps boast the production values ​​of a magazine shoot scale "We use stylists, color correction and we Photoshopping sightings we do every day," said Ms. Robinovitz. "It often takes hours just to find the perfect corner."

A well-designed investment is the bottom line. "We keep hearing that if we people 10,000 by half a dozen bloggers online," said Julian, "we are much more focused because we. The people who actually reach Shopping"

Use Blogger, Twitter or Instagram, "we can see the number of user interactions," said Jimmy Hagan, a spokeswoman Nanette Lepore. "The results are easier to understand than the written press."

This may not be as messages to the trainer that. Recently hired Natalie Joos, a casting director and model bloggers, get the model on its website Mrs. Joos operates its growing popularity on his own blog, Tales of tenderness and others brands they promote admired. When she confronted the Lincoln Center last week, she identified the gauzy pale lavender dress she wore as Spetic of Karla, a little-known designer in Australia. Pressed, she admitted it was awarded by Mrs. Spetic Showroom.

"Natalie has presented us the opportunity to attract additional attention to the brand," said Lia-Belle King, publicist Spetic the woman. "We felt it was more than any other, embodies the feeling of excitement and pleasure, his personal fashion sense is similar to ours."

Of course not everyone is for rent. "I turned in the hotel room where I find racks of clothing," said Susie Lau of Style Bubble blog.

The much-photographed woman Lau usually, but not always ignored these invitations implied she said. Like his fellow bloggers, it is legally required to post on its website are the characteristic elements, the grant or loan.

But on the streets of Manhattan, such restrictions do not seem to apply. Ms. Lau and even admitted that she sometimes wears clothes a favor to their creators. Arrangements are never commercial, she said. "I work with brands that I like, if there was already a relationship."

Even mega-retailers such as H & M have to play in the streets. As Anna Dello Russo, studiedly flamboyant blogger and editor at large for Vogue Japan, his legs stretched out in the show this week, she wore brazenly adorned accessories she created in collaboration with a new retail chain, showing among other things, H & M's cat-eye Sunglasses with shiny crocodile on the front.

The dealer had not worked so far with an editor or blogger. When the company approached her: "I was surprised," said Ms. Dello Russo. She declined to say how much she was paid.

Scrolling products at trade shows in his eyes is a new way of doing business. "This is the new concept for communication," said Ms. Dello Russo said, "and part of the culture of our time."


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